Universal trouser pattern



NOV. 28, 1950 G, A, MQNGELL] 2,531,781

UNIVERSAL TROUSER PATTERN Filed March 7, 1950 Patented Nov. 28, 1950 UNITED STATES ATENT OFFICE UNIVERSAL TROUSER PATTERN Giuseppe A. Mongelli, Philadelphia, Pa.

Application March 7, 1950, Serial No. 148,083

5 Claims.

This invention relates to patterns for mens and boys clothing and more particularly to an improved universal pattern for trousers.

In the quantity production of mens trousers, it has been extremely diicult in the past to provide properly tting trousers unless a great many measurements are taken on each individual. For military services and other uses where it is highly desirable that good tailored ts be made with a minimum of measurements for each individual, I have found that a universal pattern saves considerable time, material and money. However, so far as is known, no single universal pattern has been devised which can include at the option of the customer, a long pleat as wide as two inches at the top.

Heretofore, it has been necessary to use separate patterns for pleated and unpleated trousers even though of the same size. This in turn largely destroyed the utility of a universal pattern since if separate pleated and unpleated patterns must be made anyhow for every size, there is no object in using a universal pattern, In production tailoring, such procedure is costly and time-consuming. I have found that with a carefully proportioned universal pattern, it is possible to incorporate a V-shaped notch in the center of the pattern that provides an excellent t over a wide range of sizes, regardless of whether a long pleat is or is not used. In other words, an important feature of the present invention resides in the fact that with only one draft or basic pattern, any size of trousers may be laid out and still with the same pattern, these trousers may be provided with or Without a long front pleat. I am aware that the expedient of providing a V-notch in patterns for various purposes, is old. However, I have found that such a notch cannot be incorporated in a universal pattern unless the construction lines for providing accurate t for different sizes, are carefully located.

A primary object of the invention therefore, is to provide a universal pattern for mens trousers in which a long wide pleat may be selectively incorporated at the wish of the customer, without the necessity of laying out a separate pattern.

Further objects will be apparent from the specification and drawings in which:

Fig. 1 is a view showing a universal front trouser pattern without a wide pleat; and

Fig. 2 shows the pattern of Fig. l opened to provide a long front pleat of any desired width.

The invention comprises essentially the provision of a universal pattern in which the con- 2 struction lines are so located that the pattern may be opened up along its axis to provide a. pleat of any given width and in which the incorporation of such a pleat in no way aiects the desirable t of the trousers.

Referring now to Fig. 1, the method of laying out the basic pattern outline for both the right and left foreparts of a pair of men's trousers, will be described. First, a square I 2 3 4, each side of which is 91/2" long is constructed. Side 2 3 is then extended an additional 32" to point 5, thus making the total length 41%". Likewise, side 3 4 is extended to point 6 an additional distance of 2%". The centerline A B is then constructed parallel to line 2 5 and 5%" to the left of said line. It will be understood that the showing of Figs. 1 and 2 is for the left side of the trousers so that the side 2 3 I'I 5 is the pocket side of the pattern, and side I 6 I8 I3 `is the fly side of the pattern.

The width of the pattern .i outline at various points is then determined as follows: For the waist, point 1 is 7%" to the right of point I on the'line I 2, and point 8 is 8%" to the right of point I on the same line. Seatline Q I is then drawn parallel to the crotchline 3 6 and 31/2" above the crotchline. Point I0 is located 10%" to the left of point 9 and point II is located 1A to the left of point 9. Now, dropping down to line 3 6, the pattern outline point 6 having previously been located, point l2 is 1A to the left of point 3. The cuifline 5 I3 is then drawn perpendicular to line 2 5 to intersect centerline A B at point I4. Point I3 is located 4%" to the left of point I4, and point I5 on line 5 I3 is likewise 4% to the right of point I4.

-Point I6 on line 3 3 is then located 21g to the left of point il and a straight line is drawn to connect points I3 and I6. The kneeline I'I |8 is then drawn parallel to, and 14" below line 3 6. Line I'I I8 intersects line A B at [I9 and line I3 I6 at I8. Point 2|] may then be located by making the distance I9 20 equal to the distance I8 I9.

The above completes the location of the major points on the outline of the trouser pattern. Starting at the upper` left corner, this outline comprises points I, 1, 8, II, I2, 2U, I5, I3, I8, S and IB. The major points are suicient for Vthe filling in of the curves or shaping the pattern as shown. Intermediate points for the pocket, y, and style pleat may then be located in the following manner: Point 2I for the style pleat is measured Z- to the left of point 2 on line I 2 and point 22, also on line |--2, is Sie?" to the left of point 2. Next, the bottom of the style pleat is determined by locating point 23 halfway between line A-B and point Il on line 9-Ill. Points 2 I, 23 and 22 are then connected as shown in the drawing. The notch 24 for the pocket is then located 7%, down from line |-2 on the pattern outline. The fly notch 25 may then be located 78 up from line 3-6 and 1% to the left of line I-Ii. The above completes the intermediate points on the basic pattern from which measurements are made to provide for increased or decreased sizes in a manner to be explained hereinafter.

It will be understood that thisV basic pattern may be used as a standard for a size such as 3'1" waist and 32 trouser length. Moreover, hav ing constructed the basic pattern, I then draw certain extended lines on which suitable graduations may be made to obtain larger and smaller sizes which will be in a predetermined ratio to the basic or standard pattern. As is well known in the tailoring art, one cannot multiply any given measurement by a constant and be assured of a corrcctifit for an individuali having a larger or smaller size. In other words, a certain increase i-n the seat measurement bears no constant ree lation to the required increase for other measurements. I have found however, that excellent trousers for larger or smaller sizes may itting l provided when I increase or decrease the pat- 'ern measurements for them in accordance with `vredetermined. increments 'along straight construction lines having varying slopes. This pro cedure will now be more fully explained.

Referring again to Fig. l, I locate point 2t on line 3 5, 2% to the left of point 2l which is thefinterection of lines A-B and 3 5. Point 2S, also on li-..e is. 11/4" to the left of point iii;

point 29 is 3" to the right of point 2l. I now draw straight lines to connect points lf3-522i: Milli: 25;?? 'l'giiz 22:25: 8;2t: and Briggs; All

of the above construction lines extend beyond the basic pattern points as shown in Fig. l, and' matT providedv with suitable graduations on which various sizes are indicated so that any larger or smal-ler outline may be readily obtained simply connecting the corresponding pattern size poi-nts on the extended lines. The same procedure is followed with respect to extensions on line 3 5 and line ll'-l8. Fig. l shows in broken lf' si a pattern outline ior a size lll which typies a pattern drawn in the above-described manner. l' have found that it is desirable to niark the graduations on each or" the above construction lines, in equal increments for each line. The following table indicates substantially the length oi each increment for the appropriate line:

Line tS-Zii; 355V laines, and 22S-27: 15/64 Line through ily notch 25: 1A,"

Line ii-t:

Line Edf-2Q: 27/64 Lines 22--28 and style pleat line through point 2li 3%4.

Line i-Z'l: 17/32" v Lines 8%23. and 1 26: 3%4

For the sake of convenience, the graduations or. calibrations on the various construction lines, have been. drawn on the pattern. However, it is entirely possible that the scale for each construen tion li eg be marked on a separate.e ruller which mayY be laid. onV the construction line to which it applies; and thenV the` proper point marked directly upon the pattern. Such a separate scale can also be used to lay out patterns that are beyond the limits of the scales that may have been marked on the pattern.

In accordance with present styling of mens trousers, it is frequently desirable to incorporate what is known as a style pleat. The lines 22-23 and 2 i-2S are for the purpose of providingT such a style pleat and in the event that the pleat is used, the pattern will extend the full distance rcm point i to point 6. Otherwise, the distance from point l to point l suiiices. In addition to the style pleat mentioned above, many customers .frequently require a much longer center pleat which extends from the waist substantially below the crotchl-ine. I have found that my universal pattern is admirably adapted to the provision of such a long pleat and once the proper size has been laid out on or with the universal pattern, it is only necessary to open the pattern the amount desired for the pleat andy no other modi- .iicaticns in measurements are necessary.

Fig. 2 shows the universal pattern constructed as in Fig. 1, in which the pattern is out along the centerline A-B so that it may be opened at the a d pivoted around point lli. The pattern unen opened, may be used in conjunction with a scale Sil so that the desired pleat can be used. For example, if a l pl'eat is desired', the pattern is opened tc a distance of 2" along the waist T e 'of the pattern. Naturally, for a size 3l patthis line would be i However, for a .larger size, it would be a line such as iii- 32. It is of importance to note in this connection, that even though the smaller graduations for sizes below 3l are used, an excellent nt either with or r-.rithou-t the long pleat may be obtained with this single pattern, and it is therefore unnecessary to maize separate patterns for the same size one with a pleat andthe other without a pieat.

It will be understood that Figs. 1 and 2 ofthe drawings illustrate a basic draft of a pattern designed to nt an individual having certain known proportions with regard to the waist, seat and length. Other drafts may be made when it is desirable to use dii-ferent proportions, and the incorporation of a slit to provide the long cen-u ter pleat will be made in identically the same way.

Having thus described :fny invention, I claim:

l. A universal forepart pattern for niens trousers having a standard pattern outline, a waistline, a cuiiline, a seatline, a crotchline substantially parallel to the waist, seat and curilines, a longitudinal centerline perpendicular to the waist, crotch and cuiilines and substantially 5.6 from the pocket side of the pattern outline at the crotchline, a straight line extending trom the upper pocket side extremity of the waistline to a point on the crotchline substantially 13/4 to the left of the intersection of the centerline and the crotchline, a straight line drawn through the upper ily extremity of the .if'aistline and the intersection of the centerline and the crotchline, a straight line extending through the ily terminus of the seatline and the intersection of the centern line and the crotchline, and a pivot point substantially at the intersection oi centerline and the cuiiii-ne, the entire upper portion of the pattern being slit on the longitudinal centerline down to the pivot point. Y

A universal forepart pattern for mens trousers having a standard pattern outline, a

waistline, a cuiiline, a seatline, a crotchline substanti'ally parallel' to the waist, seat, andcuiines, a longitudinal centerline perpendicular to the waist, crotch and cufllines and substantially 5.6" from the pocket side of the pattern outline at the crotchline, a calibrated size scale on a straight line extending from the upper pocket side extremity of the waistline to a point on the crotchline substantially 11/4 to the left of the intersection ofi-the centerline and the crotchline, a calibrated size scale on a straight line drawn through the upper fly extremity of the waistline and the intersection of the centerline and the crotchline, a calibrated size scale on a straight line extending through the ily terminus of the seatline and the intersection of the centerline and the crotchline, a calibrated size scale on each end of the crotchline and forming an extension thereof, and a pivot point substantially at the intersection of the centerline and the culine, the entire upper portion of the pattern being slit on the longitudinal centerline down to the pivot point.

3. A universal forepart pattern for mens trousers having a standard pattern outline, a Waistline, a cufine, a seatline, a crotchline substantially parallel to the Waist, seat, and cuiiiines, a longitudinal centerline perpendicular to the waist, crotch and cuiilines and substantially 5.6 from the pocket side of the pattern outline at the crotchline, a straight line extending from the upper pocket side extremity of the Waistline to a point on the crotchline substantially 1%" to the left of the intersection of the centerline and the crotchline, a straight line drawn through the upper fly extremity of the Waistline and the intersection of the centerline and the crotchline, a straight line extending through the fly terminus of the seatline and the intersection of the centerline and the crotchline, means for both interpolating and extrapolating graduations for sizes other than the standard pattern on each of said straight lines, and a pivot point substantially at the intersection of the centerline and the cuiiline, the entire upper portion of the pattern being slit on the longitudinal centerline down to the pivot point.

4. A universal forepart pattern for mens trousers having a standard pattern outline, a

waistline, a cuiliine, a seatline, a crotchline, substantially parallel to the Waist, seat and culilines, a longitudinal centerline perpendicular to the waist, crotch and cufflines and substantially 5.6 from the pocket side of the pattern outline at the crotchline, a straight line extending from the upper pocket side extremity of the Waistline to a point on the crotchline substantially to the left of the intersection of the centerline and the crotchline, a straight line drawn through the upper fly extremity of the waistline and the intersection of the centerline and the crotchline, a straight line extending through the fly terminus of the seatline and the intersection of the centerline and the crotchline, and a pivot point substantially at the intersection of the centerline and the cuilline, the entire upper portion of the pattern being slit on the longitudinal centerline down to the pivot point.

5. A universal forepart pattern for mens trousers having a standard pattern outline, a waistline, a cuflline, a seatline, a crotchline substantially parallel to the Waist, seat, and cuillines, a longitudinal centerline perpendicular to the waist, crotch and cuiilines and substantially 5.6" from the pocket side of the pattern outline lat the crotchline, a calibrated size scale on a straight line extending from the upper pocket side extremity of the waistline to a point on the crotchline substantially to the left of the intersection of the centerline and the crotchline, a calibrated size scale on a straight line drawn through the upper ily extremity of the waistline and the intersection of the centerline and the crotchline, a calibrated size scale on a straight line extending through the fly terminus of the seatline and the intersection of the centerline and the crotchline, a calibrated size scale on each end of the crotchline and forming an extension thereof, and a pivot point substantially at the intersection of the centerline and the cuiine, the entire upper portion of the pattern being slit on the longitudinal centerline down to the pivot point.

GIUSEPPE A. MO'NGELLI.

No references cited. 

